Wil5on, best of luck learning Mandarin! It's hard, yes, but definitely rewarding and should be of vital importance in the future. If you want any advice I would say take the time to learn the radicals for the Chinese characters. They're the common elements of many many of the characters, and being familiar with them makes it easier to memorize seemingly complex strokes, because instead of just memorizing them as a picture, you can break the stroke elements down into (usually) logical pieces that can help you remember the whole character. Like... the first two radicals in the character for "who?" are "speak/say and person." Makes sense in an odd way. Also, try and master the tones. It's hard, but don't give up. I've learned the hard way that if you don't have the right tones here, you're pretty much unintelligable.
OK, so I want to recap the past couple weeks. I'll post pictures soonish if you prefer to see those instead of read about what I've done. This cut and pasted out of the journal entry I just finished writing:
So, I've had a couple big weekends in a row, with a lot of travelling and memorable experiences. Some of what happened is thought provoking, others just worthy of note.
Haha I guess we can Tarantino this (yeah Dane) so I'll start with this weekend and work back.
So, this was our travel weekend. We had Thursday afternoon and Friday classes off, and so a group of 8 of us left as early as we could to catch the seven hour train ride to Zheng Zhou, which is south of Beijing. We spent the night there at a surprisingly nice hotel for less than 8 bucks each, and then caught a tour bus (well we thought it was just a regular bus so that was a nice surprise) that took us to a few different Shaolin temples, with the last one being the biggest and most famous (and touristy). Not much to say, just took photos and wandered around, seeing as the tour was given in Chinese and I can pretty much only say stupid Chinese words and phrases like "homework" and "how big is your family?"
Anyway, a couple highlights. There was a Shaolin demonstration/show that we watched that pretty much showcased how flexible/badass the monks are. These kids were young too, since all the best monks tour internationally, but they still did amazing flips, broke metal bars over their heads, and pretty much proved they were the originators of all the cool moves break dancers use.
Also, we had fifteen minutes to shop before we had to catch a bus to some Buddhist caves, and so Gage, Louise and I all tried to pick up some tshirts for friends and family. Usually, its pretty easy and quick to bargain someone down to a reasonable price. They start off with 250 kwai, and you say f**k that, I'll give you 10, and then work from there. I'd say if you pay 15 kwai you feel pretty good about yourself (and they still make money off you). Anyway, the people at this tshirt stand were being real bastards. I figure since Shaolin temple is such a tourist trap they know they can get at least 25 kwai per shirt easily, and so they wouldn't budge on the price. The three of us got so caught up in trying to get a good price (plus we got our money mixed up and were pretty confused) we almost missed the bus. One of the other kids on the trip name Yi (who reminds me of a Chinese American version of Atom Ant) ran around the entire vendor area twice trying to find us. He was so desperate we pretty much grabbed the shirts we wanted and ran, leaving behind enough money for ~20 kwai per shirt. Stealing in a Communist country is such a bad idea, but in the moment we were pissed off at them, and desperate not to get left behind, so we didn't hesitate. I hope I can hide among 1.3 billion Chinese people for the rest of the trip, and that I wont get my hands chopped off before I make it home.
We saw some caves and did other touristy s**t on Saturday, and then Sunday we travelled back to Beijing. The train ride felt longer this time around, but all in all the travel went much smoother that I expected. I had heard such horror stories about Chinese trainstations I felt getting on our train would be like fighting to get on the last lifeboat on the Titanic, but we were able to pay 5 kwai to a porter to get us on early, and that worked out well. Oh 8 kwai = 1 USD.
Yeah, so that was this weekend. I'm sweaty, tired, but pretty happy with what we got to see and the fact that we managed to travel and organize it all ourselves. Also, Beijing has got to be the most polluted city in the world, and the pollution doesn't even get any better 7 hours away by train. It looks like the world is covered in perpetual fog 24 hours a day. I'll share some pictures later, to illustrate.
OK, so it's time to move back to last weekend. This was a big one for me. On Friday, I went to a KTV Bar (Karaoke) to celebrate one of the American kids' birthday. It was just Chinese beer and bad renditions of Piano Man and Like a Prayer. On the whole, it was a pretty hollow night, giving me a glimpse into the superficial westernized side of Beijing. It was good only because it was such a contrast to what I was lucky enough to experience on Saturday.
My Chinese roommate Kevin and I haven't hung out all too much. We eat a few meals together a week, and usually talk a bit about small issues before bed, but that's about the extent of our relationship. My weekend plans to visit Tim Lux in Dalian fell through, so on Saturday he invited me to his biannual family reunion at his aunt's house in Eastern Beijing.
We caught a bus and then a subway and then a train and then a cab and then walked. The whole thing took about 2 hours.... and we were still in metropolitan Beijing. It was then when I realized this city really is as huge as they say it is. I couldn't imagine travelling 2 hours in any direction from the center of NYC and still being able to see skyscrapers and highrises. Apparently, Beijing is as big as the entirety of Belgium. I believe it.
Anyway, for the walking portion of our journey, we turned off from the main road filled with apartments and shopping malls and other examples of modernity and entered a narrow, uneven backalleyway. This alleyway lead us to more, along which ran traditional Chinese courtyard houses, all in varying (but bad) states of disrepair. These areas are called Hutongs, and used to be everywhere in Beijing. Now, you can only find them in certain areas, because everything old is being knocked down to make way for modern buildings like high rent apartments. The people who live in the hutongs are basically forcibly relocated with a little compensation to places far on the edge of the city. It's pretty s**tty all in all, but the people in charge have apparently weighed the options and breaking a few eggs on the way to a ... uh ... western omlet (sorry) seems to be worth it.
(I notice I'm cursing a lot in this entry. Not really sure why. Perhaps it's because I just finished reading Waugh's "Decline and Fall" on the train and I feel feisty.)
Anyway, I knew this was a pretty amazing opportunity to see a different side of Beijing (and Kevin) as soon as we walked through the streets of the Hutong. It's been 8 days now so I don't feel as inclined to go into details, but basically his aunt's house was in the traditional style and very old, and very broken down. The family didn't seem nearly as well off as the Chinese I see driving Audi's and Beamers around. From what I've read the Chinese leaders seem pretty convinced that a rising tide lifts all boats, but Kevin's family didn't seem to be benefitting from China's rapid industrialization and economic boom. Regardless of their income, Kevin's family was so generous with the food and drink that it drove me to the edge of embarrassment from saying Che Baole(sp?) (I'm full, literally "I'm now round from eating") so many times. Despite the huge language barrier, I hope I succeeded in being cute enough with my Chinglish and polite enough via Kevin. We stayed for maybe... five hours before we headed back to the dorm, and when we left the whole family (which was huge, and just his mother's side-- which, in 1 child China, surprised me although I guess they are all too old for that policy) came out into the alley to bid us farewell. As we walked away shouts of Zai Jian and Bye echoed after us.
I would have written more details about it all, but I'm getting really tired at this point. So I guess it's time to come to a clean little conclusion for me to take with me back to suburban Connecticut. Maybe I can write something that will prove me worldly and perceptive. Right.
OK so here it is. Beijing, especially with the Olympics coming in 2008, has furiously been applying this vaneer of modernity and progress, and honestly... the best things I've experienced here are in no ways connected with what remind me of my first world home. There was an interesting New York Times article that pondered, "Will the Olympics, which organizers promised would enhance the city?s ??cultural heritage,?? instead help finish off what remains of old Beijing?" I'm afraid the author of the article is right. When Beijing finally emerges as a first world country, which it will, I doubt there will be anything like the old and the traditional left. It's a shame. And I mean shame in the deepest hardest sense.
Full Article here:
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/07/12/world/asia/12beijing.html?ex=1152936000&en=1ce29102107eb311&ei=5087%0A
Sorry for the long link, I can't remember the link shortening code.